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Monday, 3 February 2014


Roman Forts, North West England, visit Cumbria

The men of the 4th Cohort of Dalmatians were a long way from home.  They were undoubtedly cold and Hardknott Fort, which the Romans knew as Mediobogdum, must have seemed like the end of the world.  Certainly, situated in the mountainous northern region of the most northerly province of Imperial Rome, it was one of the most remote postings in the Empire.  Today, it is in the English county of Cumbria, on the edge of the Lake District.  The approach was the same 1800 years’ ago as it is now – either east from the port Glannaventa (Ravenglass) or west from the fort at Galava (Ambleside), a hard trudge through tough terrain.   The Dalmatians, who came from the eastern Adriatic (modern Croatia, Albania, Serbia, Bosnia, Herzegovina and Montenegro) have left little trace of themselves at the fort they built sometime between 117 and 122AD, during the reign of Emperor Hadrian.  They were a 3–4 month march away from their homes, but most of them are unlikely to have ever seen their families again anyway.

Hardknott Fort, Roman Britain, Brigantes, Roman Army
Hardknott was constructed of local stone, as well as red sandstone and timber that the soldiers would have hauled up from the coast.  The Romans had pushed into northern Britain by the latter part of the 1st century, but not all native Britons submitted easily and we do know that the early 2nd century was a violent time.  Forts were situated at key points along the roads built by the invaders, to facilitate the defence of their new possession and ensure the safe passage of goods.  To secure northern Britain (modern northern England), the Romans had to subjugate the dominant tribe in these parts, the Brigantes, and possibly a sub-tribe of the Brigantes, the Carvetii.  Many believe that Glannaventa – Ravenglass – was both a Roman naval base and the main port for the north of the province, where produce from throughout the Empire would have landed.  So Hardknott’s commanding location above the valley of the River Esk guarded an important trade route. 

Roman fort construction, about Britain, Mediobogdum
We don’t know how long the 500 or so men of the 4th Cohort stayed, but it is thought the fort was vacated during the Roman incursion into Caledonia (modern Scotland) in the late 130s/early 140s.  It was regarrissoned later in the 2nd century and then abandoned in the early 3rd century, its gradually decaying structure providing shelter for passing travellers heading over the pass.  The reason for its abandonment is not known, but perhaps this part of Britain was at peace; or perhaps the garrison was needed elsewhere.

Eskdale, Roman Lake District, Roman ruins in England
Roman forts were normally constructed on a standard design.  This was a highly efficient process – everybody knew what to do – and saved a fortune in architects’ fees.  At Mediobogdum can be seen the stone outline of the Horrea – granaries, which had raised floors so that air could circulate and reduce the risk of infestation; the Principia, or headquarters, which would have included administrative offices and a temple; and the Praetorium, the commander’s residence, which was unfinished.  Building on this rocky and uneven ground must have been very difficult.  There are no traces of any barracks or stables - these have just disappeared; perhaps leather tents were used.  The fort is roughly square, with a gateway in each wall.  There would have been a tower at each corner, with entrances from a walkway that ran round the walls.  Outside stood the bath house, one touch of civilisation in what must have otherwise been considered very basic conditions.

Roman bath house, Hardknott Pass, explore Roman Britain
Even now, Hardknott, can be a lonely, unwelcoming, place.  You can, of course, walk there; some, for reasons best known to themselves, cycle.  By far the easiest method is to drive – either up from the coast, or from Ambleside.  The latter is a spectacular route, but not for the fainthearted; the road is a single track, with passing places, that snakes its way around hairpin bends and up/down slopes where the gradient is 1:3 (33%).  Beware of suicidal cyclists – there is not enough room for a car and bicycle to pass each other safely.  Unless you’re mad, or a rally driver (or both), you cannot hurry.  At times, the car bonnet will, unnervingly, rise up and completely obscure your view of the way ahead – which can be pitted with perilous pot-holes; and at times your wheels will be rather close to the edge.  It is a treacherous road in bad weather and you should not even consider it in those circumstances.  At the very least, it is not the sort of place you want to be stranded – anymore than those poor Dalmatians did, I guess.

Drive from Ambleside to Hardknott, good drives in England

The route from Ambleside

Take the A593 in the direction of Coniston.  About 1 mile after Skelwith Bridge, take the minor road on the right signposted for Little Langdale.  Stay on this road over Fell Foot Bridge and ascend Wrynose Pass.  The road will then take you through Wrynose Bottom before ascending again up Hardknott Pass.  You will see the fort on your right as you come down.  There is a small parking area, but no other facilities.  The ground is invariably extremely wet; take footwear to change into (preferably boots) and suitable warm, weatherproof, clothing.


  1. incredible valley views! the stone ruins are neat, too.

  2. I walked up there once. Unlike the brave soldiers I lasted about twenty minutes up there before I hurried on my way with a vow (as yet unfulfilled) to go back and have a better look another day.

  3. I can see how they'd think of it as the end of the world. It's stark but lovely... that part of England, the Lake District... I must see it for myself someday.

  4. That is just so isolated and desolate! Lovely photos though, and very interesting post.

  5. You tell a fascinating tale and make me want to visit parts of my country I have never visited. That's good travel writing.

  6. I don't think I'll be driving there soon!

  7. At first glance, I thought this read, 'Mediocreblogdum,' but of course I was wrong! I would love to visit this area, but I've watched too many YouTube videos of Hardknott Pass. I can't imagine driving that area. I stayed under the dash of our rental car while we were at Buttertubs Pass in Yorkshire. Hardknott is too Hardcore for me. I'll stick with your beautiful photos and accompanying post.


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